Who Determines Fashion?

Many people think that fashion is determined by famous pop stars, movie stars, musicians or people in show business. This is generally a correct idea, but behind the scenes there are the fashion designers who dress these celebrities and the fashion authorities they are affiliated with. These fashion designers and fashion organizations always have to stay ahead of life. For this reason, they meet 2 years in advance and determine trends and trends. So, how are these trends and trends determined?

Fashion Organizations That Cut Racun

The main organizations that determine fashion trends and are considered the greatest authority are; The International Fashion Federation headquartered in Paris, the "International Color Commission" Intercolor, which has a great influence on a global scale, Woolmark, the international wool authority, and its Woolmark Blend and Wool Blend brands. These institutions, which came together two years ago, first decide on the fabric selection. If there is excess wool stock or excess cotton harvest at that time, with the guidance of the largest producers in the wool and cotton industry, they determine the type of fabric that will be used in the collections to melt the cotton or wool stock and therefore become fashionable. Woolmark is an organization that gathers sheep producers in Australia and New Zealand and companies that produce using the wool of these sheep. Therefore, the wool market is questioned from him.

Fabric Selection

Fabric and the thread that weaves it are very important materials for the fashion designer. These fashion authorities decide on the raw material, quality and colors of the yarn. While manufacturers prefer to produce yarn and fabric that they can sell more easily, designers prefer to use fabrics that suit their models and styles. The fabrics decided to be used as a result of a common decision appear on the catwalks within 2 years.

Color Selection

After the properties of the fabrics to be used in the designs are determined, it is time to choose the color and this is where Intercolor comes into play. It is decided that a color palette selected by Intercolor, the International Color Commission, and trendsetters will be used in fabrics that will become fashionable. These determined colors appear all over the world within 18 - 24 months.

Of course, fashion and trends are not only about wool, cotton, dye, etc. It is not determined according to the stock status of the sectors or the colors determined by Intercolor. So it's not that simple. In addition, there are professional social engineers working under these fashion organizations. These social engineers, who analyze the society, analyze the world's war, hunger, earthquake, weather events or politics, etc. They follow the developments and their effects on society and present them in reports to trend-setting organizations. For example, during times of war, people tend to dress in dark tones. According to these situations, all this information is brought together and the fashion is determined. Then, these fashion federations inform fashion designers or fashion organizations, which we call trendsetter, about this issue.

Trend Determination Stages

The colors and patterns that will be fashionable a few years ago are determined through meetings held by more global institutions such as Intercolor, which are among the organizations in the world that work in this field and evaluate trends, or institutions consisting of 20-25 people such as BTCG and ICA. These trendsetting organizers, in their meetings; He announces his predictions, new trends and the resulting results at the press conference. In particular, the impact of Premiere Vision, one of the most important fashion events in the world and held twice a year, is quite high. These members of the boards, which generally consist of designers, mostly present to the board the new facts they observe in society during the meetings. According to his ideas, he shares the possible trends of the future with other members. Various factors such as an art event, song, movie, global events inspire designers. And as a result of these decisions, color unity consisting of a certain color palette is achieved, while fabric and thread selection is also determined by the same institutions.

Trendsetter (Fashion Setters)

Color and fabric determined by these authorities; For example, fashion designers and fashion houses, who are informed that black-white, cotton and monochrome patterned fabrics will be trendy, start making collections... While the most beautiful and extreme dress models in these collections are used in fashion shows and advertising campaigns, the more commercial versions of these dress models are used by people in daily life. It evolves into wearable designs and is offered for sale in store windows. These trendsetter brands hire pop stars, movie stars or various artists to promote their designs; It spends millions of dollars on advertising and fashion shows. In order to stand out and be accepted in the fashion community, it uses various tools like this to make its product accepted by the masses. But despite all these advertising campaigns and millions of dollars spent on fashion shows at various fashion weeks, the job still ends with the end user.

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Trickle Down Theory

There is a fashion theory that has dominated from 19th century France, where the fashion industry began to show its influence, to the fast-fashion concept of 2020: Penetration. This theory, called trickle down, means leaking down. This trend; He argues that fashion is shaped in high society, upper classes or, if we define it today, in the shows of fashion designers, and that the public chooses their clothes as a result of these determining factors. According to this theory, which was first put forward by sociologist Thorstein Veblen in 1899; A noble woman wears a dark red dress, and then lower-class people begin to wear dresses in the same shades of red. If we look at the modern world, big fashion houses and famous designers exhibit red furs and padded jackets in their fashion shows, and people's demand for these products can suddenly increase and turn into a trend.

Trickle up

There is also a second theory put forward in 1981 that is not as effective as the trickle down theory. “Trickle up” theory. A young and brave fashion designer named Vivienne Westwood reveals this theory in her collection. Vivienne creates a subculture fashion trend by exhibiting models dressed in punk style in her fashion show. In fact, Chanel's models that provide freedom of movement, inspired by the women there, during World War II, can be cited as an example of this trend. However, while these pieces were designed taking into account the conditions and needs of that period, Vivienne Westwood's creations were more of a sociological discourse. As a result, Punks did not need a special selection that they could wear in daily life.

After the long-lasting period in which the punk movement was glorified, the influence of the "ascension" theory began to gradually decline in the fashion world. Until Demna Gvasalia, Creative Director of Balenciaga and Vetements, spread this trend to a wider audience. These subculture costumes, which dominated the Autumn & Winter collections last season, signal that they will have an impact for many years to come. Characteristic pieces and combinations of people from subcultures such as punk, rock, hip-hop, rap and R&B are favorites of big trendsetters such as Gucci, Stella McCartney and Alexander Wang. These parts; It gives the impression that it is simple, comfortable, and came from the streets. These are the pieces we often see on people shopping in a market or shopping mall; It consists of tracksuit tops, ripped jeans, leather jackets, puffer jackets and booties. These combinations continue to replace the magnificent, flamboyant and sophisticated creations frequently exhibited at fashion weeks. Making fashion more accessible; These silhouettes, which show his stance and attitude more sincerely, rebirth the "climbing up" theory from the ashes.